Gas stoves fill the air in your home with particulate matter (pm), which has been found to increase cancer risk in the long term.

So next time you buy a stove, consider choosing an induction stove.

Btw, gas stoves being better or faster than induction is a myth. They have certain specific advantages, but they are actually slower.

Obligatory Technology Connections video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eUywI8YGy0Y

  • Hildegarde@lemmy.blahaj.zone
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    3 hours ago

    Yes, but…

    Cooking itself also does this. If you are searing or frying that will also release dangerous particulates. Make sure you have and use a vent hood that vents outside the living space when you cook regardless of fuel.

    I can say from personal experience of using every kind of home stove, that gas is both the worst and slowest. Boiling water for my morning coffee is fastest on induction, which takes about half the time as resistive or radiant electric, and gas takes nearly three times longer than that.

    Though it might just be the american style of burner that directs the flame away from the center of the pan. I’ve not yet tried any other kind.

    • douglasg14b@lemmy.world
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      It probably has to do with the type of burner I’m going to guess.

      We’ve had both induction and electric stoves for our whole lives. And the home we recently moved into has a fancy dancy natural gas stove with star shaped burners.

      It is night and day compared to anything else we’ve used before, water boils so much faster, I can actually sear a pen full of vegetables now instead of just making them mushy.

      Honestly I love it. I just wish the hood wasn’t so shitty and actually had a hood to capture all of the output from the stove.

  • UltraGiGaGigantic@lemmy.ml
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    16 hours ago

    Since this is the stove thread:

    I had a pot of salt water overflow from boiling on a electric stove and now there is this tough ring of residue around the burner caked on and it won’t scrub off. Is using a razor blade to scrape it off really the only option?

    I’m worried I will scratch the stove top and the landleech will have an excuse to steal my security deposit.

    • SkyezOpen@lemmy.world
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      3 hours ago

      Magic eraser might be worth a shot. Melamine foam is the generic name for it and you can get a ton of it cheap. It destroys stains easily. Even if it doesn’t handle the burner stains I highly recommend it for cleaning around the house anyway.

    • CancerMancer@sh.itjust.works
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      4 hours ago

      Nothing stopping you from using diluted lye / oven cleaner and wiping it off, just be very sure you take the necessary precautions. Do not breathe that shit in or let it get on your skin.

    • 12newguy@mander.xyz
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      15 hours ago

      I’ve used a razor for really stuck on bits on our glass top stove, but this cleaner also seems to do quite well: https://weiman.com/glass-cooktop-cleaner-polish

      For the razor, keep it at a shallow angle (I tend to go around 20 or 30 degrees above the stovetop), and keep a small amount of water on the surface. I usually have a damp rag that I wipe the razor and stovetop with occasionally during the scraping process, to remove the small pieces that come off.

      Also, if you are nervous about damaging the stovetop itself, maybe try something only lightly abrasive and warm water, and let the water work it’s magic. (I see you have already tried this, so maybe that isn’t helpful :/ ) From a chemistry perspective, salt water shouldn’t exactly leave behind an insoluble residue, but IDK what else was cooking in the water.

    • thisbenzingring@lemmy.sdf.org
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      15 hours ago

      BarTenders friend is really the best for everything in the kitchen, but leaving some CLR on it overnight should break it down enough to clean up with a warm sponge. Calcium is probably the white stuff.

    • cheers_queers@lemm.ee
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      16 hours ago

      as long as you’re careful, it will be fine. been using a razorblade on them my whole life

  • 7rokhym@lemmy.ca
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    1 day ago

    The studies I read, there was no ventilation / exhaust fan. The point was that low income households using these stoves often don’t have proper ventilation and it makes them dangerous. I didn’t find much evidence that using them with proper ventilation is actually a serious problem.

    Further, cooking releases all sorts of chemicals from incomplete combustion in the air if something is burning, as well as the toxic chemicals release from nonstick cookware at very high temperatures, so cooking without ventilation is bad for your health would be the message I’d take away. I find most people are completely unaware of the hazard.

    • Nalivai@lemmy.world
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      18 hours ago

      With proper ventilation you can do everything, you can work with hazardous gases and nuclear materials, if the ventilation is sufficient.

    • IMALlama@lemmy.world
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      20 hours ago

      Very few residences have proper ventilation. In the US, a microwave above the stove is common. Microwave often do have a fan function, but the vast majority don’t vent outdoors. I doubt that running air through a very thin filter will do much good.

    • CrayonRosary@lemmy.world
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      20 hours ago

      Even charcoal grills inside are fine with proper ventilation. So you’re right, but your also not saying very much.

      • GaMEChld@lemmy.world
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        20 hours ago

        Yeah I’m not sure what the purpose of the comment was. To convince people to continue using gas on the off chance it won’t increase cancer risk? That’s not a compelling reason to use gas. It might not kill me.

    • bss03@infosec.pub
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      1 day ago

      The few times I have prepared meat while trying to minimize the maillard reaction, it was still quite tasty.

      That said, I agree that cancer risk is relative, and you can’t avoid all risk, even if you are happy to try.

      I hear sous vide steak can be quite tasty.

      • PM_Your_Nudes_Please@lemmy.world
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        24 hours ago

        I hear sous vide steak can be quite tasty.

        It is the best way to prepare steak, but you still need to sear it afterwards. The steak can be cooked to a perfect medium-rare all the way through… But you still need to throw it on an ultra hot skillet with some butter and rosemary afterwards, to add the crust to the outside.

        • bss03@infosec.pub
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          19 hours ago

          The information I have says sous vide is not as good as a “standard” reverse sear in an oven. But, I haven’t tried either.

          My experience is that the “crust” on meat is entirely optional, and while I don’t aggressively avoid it, I don’t seek it out when I am preparing my own meat.

          • PM_Your_Nudes_Please@lemmy.world
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            18 hours ago

            I have tried both, and can confirm that sous vide is superior. With a traditional oven prep, you get a pink rare center and brown medium-well outer edge. With sous vide, you get a perfect light pink medium rare all the way through, with only a thin edge of brown from the sear. With sous vide, you just sort of roll it across the skillet on the way to the plate, to get that crust but avoid cooking the interior more.

            But to be clear, if you skip the sear with sous vide, your steak will be pink. You’ll miss out on a lot of flavor and mouthfeel from the sear. Sous vide technically cooks the meat, but doesn’t cause any browning (at least, not when cooking it to medium rare) because there isn’t enough heat to cause the Maillard reaction.

            • bss03@infosec.pub
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              18 hours ago

              Since the Maillard reaction and all its VOCs are the most likely source of meat-related cancer risk, I will gladly eat pink (but safely cooked) meat. In fact the center pink bits are my favorite parts a traditionally cooked steak / prime rib.

  • purplemonkeymad@programming.dev
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    1 day ago

    We swapped out a gas for induction, it’s amazing to be able to put the temp down below very hot. Also very responsive to power changes, and can wipe clean.

    • Monzcarro@feddit.uk
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      22 hours ago

      I love my induction hob for all the reasons you mention. It is by far the best hob I’ve used - much better than gas - and I cook a lot. The only slight downside is ensuring you have the right pans, but they’re widely available. My enamelled cast iron casserole pot works a treat.

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    1 day ago

    Appliance repairman here. What I tell my clients about gas in general is that: 1. When natural gas burns it create CO. 2. There is a none zero chance the thing can blow up.

    Electric cooking appliances have an absolute zero chance of either of these two things happening.

    I try to get people to switch to electric for these reasons some just like the aesthetic of cooking on gas.

    • 𝓔𝓶𝓶𝓲𝓮@lemm.ee
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      yeah blah blah blah but honestly… we are humans, we do crazy shit daily like driving 200 kph in a metal can while blasting rave or metal music. If something goes out in flames just say that new years eve came in early - if you are still alive. Life isn’t for the faint of heart for sure

    • m4m4m4m4@lemmy.world
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      20 hours ago

      In my third world country the real issue is about costs. At this very moment cooking with gas is cheaper than cooking with electric.

      The gas provider company mandates an inspection on every home gas apppliance and the installation every 5 years to check for good connections and correct ventilation (if a home does not pass the checks the service is suspended), so I guess at least it diminishes the risks to some degree.

      But still since gas is going to be a lot expensive in the following weeks, maybe the tables will turn. But then you’ll need to get an electric stove.

      • Zwiebel@feddit.orgOP
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        3 hours ago

        Vent your home as much as possible when cooking, that should help with the health risks.

        Maybe you can get a small induction stove like this to use the gas stove less

        1000060659

    • neomachino@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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      19 hours ago

      I absolutely hate that I have a gas stove and water heater mainly for reason 2. It fills me with pure anxiety.

      I know there’s a relatively small chance, but whenever we’re turning the corner and I see the house is still there it’s a huge relief. In the next year or two we should be able to put out the money to put in outlets and get rid of gas.

      I do almost everything in my house but the 2 things I won’t touch are electric and gas.

      • lonerangers1@lemmy.world
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        4 hours ago

        heatpump water heaters are looking good. Super easy to install. No venting needed and they run on 120v.

    • jagged_circle@feddit.nl
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      C02 isnt the only dangerous chemical.

      And most peoples electricity generates huge amounts of GHGs

      • rockstarmode@lemmy.world
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        1 day ago

        Just pointing out the person you replied to said CO which is carbon monoxide, not CO2

        The lack of formatting in their comment was confusing.

        That said, you’re right that CO (or CO2) aren’t the only harmful outputs of combustion.

    • Today@lemmy.world
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      1 day ago

      We like to see it - fire, heat.

      We like using pans that may not be induction friendly.

      • gonzo-rand19@moist.catsweat.com
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        1 day ago

        Did you know that the vast majority of electric stovetops aren’t induction stovetops and you can use any pan you like on them? Personally, I would rather not breathe in carbon monoxide.

      • qaz@lemmy.world
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        1 day ago

        Ceramic stoves also work on other types of pans and emit a bright red glow when they’re hot. However, they are less efficient.

      • Kusimulkku@lemm.ee
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        We like to see it - fire, heat.

        Exact reason why I built a fire in my kitchen. Gives that camping feeling

      • Mouselemming@sh.itjust.works
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        Regular old coil electric stoves will be fine with, for instance, your old rough-bottomed cast iron pan. And despite no flame, the coils glow red hot like a horseshoe at a blacksmith’s, to hit that emotional spot.

        There is a little learning curve: they heat up and cool down more slowly, which can be a plus if you work with it.

        Note: If you have spilled, especially grease, be sure to lift the whole stovetop to clean underneath, nobody taught me that at first.

          • Mouselemming@sh.itjust.works
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            13 hours ago

            If you can afford them. And afford to replace old pots that don’t induct. For instance, cast iron is supposed to work, but my beloved old 16" cast iron murder weapon has a very uneven base so it barely connected and didn’t work at all.

            I will agree that new coil stoves are the low end of the line, so the oven will be more cheaply made as well.

          • Mouselemming@sh.itjust.works
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            13 hours ago

            If it’s flat enough to connect. My pan has a raised 16 inch outer ring, well outside the induction area, and about a 2 inch diameter circle in the middle that touches the glass. No contact, no induction.

      • rockstarmode@lemmy.world
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        I absolutely agree. I’m happy to switch to a new technology as long as it performs at least as well as my current implementation.

        I have a few cast iron and carbon steel pans, but most of my cooking vessels are thick copper (not copper inserts, full 3mm or more copper). Copper pans are superior to any other material (unless you prioritize cost) and are sadly incompatible with induction.

        Don’t even talk to me about electric element (non induction) stoves, they’re garbage for heat control.

        • chunkystyles@sopuli.xyz
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          21 hours ago

          They are garbage for heat control if you use them the same way you would a gas or induction stove. If you learn how to use one, resistive electric stoves cook just fine.

          • rockstarmode@lemmy.world
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            2 hours ago

            Hard disagree. Try making a sauce which requires high heat, then very low heat. Turning the electric burner down doesn’t immediately reduce heat, it cools off relatively slowly. I guess you could switch to another burner that was preheated to a low temp, assuming you have a free burner while cooking.

            I’ve worked for years in several professional kitchens and cook 3 meals a day, 7 days a week from scratch at home. I know how to use the tools in a kitchen, and non-induction electric burners are absolute garbage.

  • Westcoastdg@lemmy.ca
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    20 hours ago

    Alright so you screwed up posting this, because I’m actively looking for a dual induction burner setup, and now I want your advice. Ideally I want a “linked” dual burner so that I can put a square skillet pan across both burners, there’s basically like one of those online, and then a bunch of dual burners that are not linked and slightly different power on either side. Wat do? Anyone have a good experience with this situation yet?

      • jpeps@lemmy.world
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        11 hours ago

        This looks brilliant in a lot of ways. For me being able to set a precise temperature would be incredible. I have some doubts about the battery system though. I can understand the utility but surely it will degrade over time? I can’t see how it’s the last stove top I’ll ever need. The battery combined with the software update thing makes it feel like another product I’ll have to rebuy every 3 years or so.

      • boonhet@lemm.ee
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        15 hours ago

        IT HAS KNOBS IT HAS KNOBS ITHASKNOBS OHMYGOD

        Sorry, I got a bit over-excited. I hate capacitive touch controls in absolutely anything with a passion and I in particular hate them on my stove because I don’t want my stove to start beeping when I wipe it, nor do I want the controls to malfunction any time they get wet because I accidentally overboil the water.

        Receives Software Updates

        I feel iffy about this part though. I don’t want my stove to have software on it.

        Tbh I feel iffy about the whole thing. 6 grand plus tax, software updates… And how does the magnet knob thingy work? Can I be sure it’s as reliable as a normal knob?

      • Westcoastdg@lemmy.ca
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        18 hours ago

        That one does look amazing! I’m unfortunately limited to a portable one in an apartment. Added to the bucket list though for sure!

    • EmoDuck@sh.itjust.works
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      Induction is best in theory, however in practice it’s unfortunately often paired with these shitty buttonless capacitive controls that are harder to decipher that hieroglyphics as well as “”“smart”“” features

      They do still sell induction stoves with classic dumb buttons but they are either hard to come buy or aimed at professional chefs, which instantly adds two zeros to their price

      • Korhaka@sopuli.xyz
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        1 day ago

        Mine has simple capacitive controls. Turn it on, higher number is more hotter. Very simple.

        Apparently it has other features, not bothered with them.

      • BertramDitore@lemm.ee
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        1 day ago

        Yeah, I hate the interfaces, but especially the super-loud non-mutable beeps which seem to be common on every model I’ve seen. My two-burner induction setup has analog knobs for temp control, which is awesome, but it stills beep when you turn them, with every single temperature increase. Drives me crazy.

        I’ll never go back to gas though. My new apartment came with a gorgeous brand new gas range, and it absolutely sucks compared to my $50 countertop induction.

      • CrayonRosary@lemmy.world
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        20 hours ago

        Induction also doesn’t work with aluminum items like a moka pot without an “induction adapter” which is just a steel plate.

      • GissaMittJobb@lemmy.ml
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        The interfaces are usually really bad, yes. The technology itself still makes up for this particular shortcoming, but they need to step up their game.

      • Rai@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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        1 day ago

        I have a regular flat top glass stove WITH KNOBS that works with ALL PANS, not just magnetic… then I have a standalone induction unit for when I need to really crank up the heat.

        Works a dream!

        • acockworkorange@mander.xyz
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          That one that works with all pans is an electric resistance coil. It’s slow as molasses. But hey, more power to you if you can use it well. I have a standalone induction unit as well and it’s amazing how little I have to use anything else.

          • Rai@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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            1 day ago

            It’s slower than induction, but not bad at all for most things! When I’m too lazy to pull out the induction burner and need to boil water, I just use my electric kettle to boil it while heating up a little bit on the stove.

            I need to get some more pans that work with my induction burner.

    • GreenSofaBed@feddit.is
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      It’s the best, got one not too long ago, and same, I’ll never go back. Immediate temperature control.

        • tychosmoose@lemm.ee
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          It’s significantly immediate-er with induction - particularly going from cool to hot. Boil water in 2 minutes and handles don’t get hot in the process. And since nothing is heating except the metal of the base of the pan there is no residual heat from the cooktop parts or the sides of the pan when you turn it off. The temperature drops much faster.

          I went back to gas after 5 years cooking on induction and miss it a lot. Cooking something like pasta that requires boiling a sizeable quantity of water takes 2x or 3x longer on gas, even with a very powerful burner.

                • PerogiBoi@lemmy.ca
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                  1 day ago

                  You seriously just asked me to go find you proof of something heavily tested and demonstrated as fact? Bahahaha. Go waste someone else’s time 🤡

              • Valmond@lemmy.world
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                1 day ago

                Well show me the study, I mean people all over the world uses highly reglemented gas stoves for not very much time a day and we’re not getting cancer ftom it I bet. I do bet a plastic TV might emanating more dangerous crap for example. Or breathing in a city.

                Last “study” I read about gas stoves, it was a crap study too but even they said there is no danger whatsoever, except if you like use it in a non at all ventilated space. => Some website took it and ran with it “gas stoves could cause cancer!1!”. And here we are. It’s like that fake story sbout vaccines & autism.

                We have gas heaters for water, sure if you don’t have any ventilation then thats bad, but if your electric setup is bad, induction won’t save that either?

                I should probably get off the internet for today 😋 go boil me a slow cup of tea ^^

                Cheers & thanks warbond

        • evasive_chimpanzee@lemmy.world
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          I’ve never seen a gas stove with temp control. I’m not even sure how that would work. Controlling the amount of gas, sure, but not the temperature. In an induction stove, you can set it to 150 degrees, and it will hold that.

    • WIZARD POPE💫@lemmy.world
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      I cannot wait to finish uni and move to a place without a gas stove. The thing is they renoveated the kitchen just before I moved in but they decided to put in a gas stove for whatever reason.

  • HelixDab2@lemm.ee
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    They have certain specific advantages, but they are actually slower.

    This entirely depends on the stove. Consumer-lever stoves? Sure, definitely. Commercial stoves? Probably not. Commercial stoves put out 3-4x the BTUs of a high-end consumer stove, and usually can’t be installed in a home because they require significant shielding around them (so you don’t burn a building down) and a very high flow hood. The highest-end Wolf range has a single burner that has a maximum output of 10,000BTU, and costs a whopping $17,000; a fairly basic range top for a commercial kitchen has six burners that can all output 32,000BTU, and costs about $3700. For stir-frying specifically, you can get a single ring wok burners outputting 92,000-125,000BTU starting at about $700 for natural gas (and a helluva lot more if you use LP).

    Unfortunately, I can’t find a solid conversion between gas and induction stove capabilities.

    Oh, and FWIW - if you live somewhere with an unstable power grid, a natural gas or LP stove will continue to function when the power is out, albeit you’ll need to light it manually. We lose power fairly regularly due to storms–usually only a day at a time, but sometimes as long as 3-4 days–and it would be a real hassle to have all electric appliances when there’s no power.

    • hinterlufer@lemmy.world
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      1 kW is 3412 BTU/h (=BTUs)

      Most induction stovetops have a boost function with around 3-4 kW (that’s about 13000 BTUs).

      BUT contrary to a gas stove top, almost all of the energy is actually put into the pot instead of the surroundings (only 30-40% of the energy from a gas stove is used to heat the pot). Meaning that a 4 kW induction cooktop should be comparable to a 40’000 BTUs gas stove (single burner).

      • HelixDab2@lemm.ee
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        Okay, good deal. So, in theory, an induction stove that’s 3500W should be approaching the heating ability of a typical commercial range.

        • RvTV95XBeo@sh.itjust.works
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          Yes, and you can test it pretty easily by just seeing how much faster a pot of water boils on induction, on-par with the boiling times of commercial burners.

          Also, in a commercial setting, induction stoves cook just as effectively with less energy which means they don’t put out nearly as much heat to the environment. For a chef, its the difference between working all day in 90-degree spaces to 70-degree AC. I’m an engineer who works on a lot of commercial kitchens (among other things), and our chefs love the electric kitchens we’ve delivered.

          When you’re cooking for work, 8+ hours a day, being comfortable while you do it is a major game changer.

          The other thing they enjoy is the level of control and consistency - many professional induction ranges will let you control on temperature, which means you can quickly adjust to specific values in order to, say, sear a steak at 500, then finish it at 300 until it hits the desired internal temperature.

      • Kbobabob@lemmy.world
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        1 day ago

        4 kW induction cooktop should be comparable to a 40’000 BTUs gas stove (single burner).

        So this is 4000 watts? What household circuit can support that?

        • warbond@lemmy.world
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          A random Better Homes and Gardens article clocks a 2000 square ft (185 square meters) home with central air conditioning at nearly 19,000 watts.

          https://www.bhg.com/home-improvement/electrical/how-to-check-your-homes-electrical-capacity/

          So I think most homes could handle that in general, but I don’t know about specific wiring requirements to handle that kind of power draw from just the kitchen. So do these things require that level of retrofit?

          • MightBeAlpharius@lemmy.world
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            16 hours ago

            I’ve never had an induction stove, but I grew up with an electric stove - IIRC, it was on a separate fuse from the rest of the kitchen, and it had a weird plug because it needed a different voltage than most other appliances.

            I would assume the requirements for an induction stove are more or less the same… Switching from regular electric to induction would probably be easy, but gas to induction would take a lot more work.

        • JustEnoughDucks@feddit.nl
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          Uhhh, tons of people in Europe are on 240V 3 phase power.

          My oven is 3100W and that is just fine. 3 phase consumer induction cooktops can easily go that high or higher.

          Once my 3 phase charging pole is put in, my car will charge at >10000W on a household circuit.

            • Zeoic@lemmy.world
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              Yes it is? The US very much has 220v for power hungry stuff. Things like ev chargers, central ac units, water heaters, electric clothes dryers, etc. It uses quite the variety of different plugs for the various amperages

              Edit: technically its 220v*

            • gonzo-rand19@moist.catsweat.com
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              I’m confused as to why you’re so confident. The US has 3-phase power and homes get 120V from line 1 to the neutral (split-phase). If you use line 1 and 2, you get 240V. More than enough to power an oven. This is the case in every modern residential home in the US because they have a national building code.

              • Kbobabob@lemmy.world
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                Yes, I’m aware that you can do this but there are not readily available outlets throughout a home for this, lol. Yes, let me move my stove or dryer so I can plug my wok induction stove in.

                • gonzo-rand19@moist.catsweat.com
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                  …You do know that an oven needs a dedicated outlet, yes? As in, if you don’t have a 30-50A receptacle in your home, one must be installed in order for you to have an oven. All new builds and most existing buildings have this dedicated outlet.

                  Edit: I see that you’re using stove and oven separately. I am talking about a range (oven and stovetop combined), since where I live these are most common and “oven” and “stovetop” are roughly interchangeable. Apologies for any confusion.

        • Aedis@lemmy.world
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          Idk about my math but most American household circuits require stoves to be on a (220V) dual phase 18 amp circuit. Which should output around 8kW (18A * 220V)

          • gonzo-rand19@moist.catsweat.com
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            Should be a lot more than 18A. Should be closer to 30A-50A to account for usage. 18A is what a kitchen receptacle would require and is so low that an oven on a 18A breaker would trip constantly. I’m Canadian so I mostly know the CEC but the NEC requirements in the USA are very similar.

            More info if you’re interested.

            • Aedis@lemmy.world
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              21 hours ago

              I was thinking of a single dual phase outlet. Is it also higher amperage as well as voltage?

              • gonzo-rand19@moist.catsweat.com
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                20 hours ago

                I have to correct you (sorry) when you say “dual-phase” because homes in Canada (my country) and the US don’t have dual-phase electricity and haven’t for many, many decades. What you are talking about is called “split-phase” and is actually just a single phase that’s been split using a neutral/return conductor.

                To actually answer your question, yes, it’s higher amperage and higher voltage. Every circuit breaker is really just a “tap” into the panel in order to create a parallel circuit at the applied voltage (usually 120V) and whatever amperage the breaker is rated for (after ensuring that you’re using the correct size of breaker, of course).

                The main reason why amperage is really important for larger appliances is because the cable used to plug them in (whether that’s by literally plugging it in or by hardwiring it into the panel) needs to be thick enough not to overheat from regular use. When precautions aren’t taken, it’s pretty easy for the cable jacket to melt (happens around 90 degrees C) and for the bare wires to eventually short and/or start a fire.

                Obviously, a 18A breaker would prevent this, but it would also prevent you from using the oven.

        • Damage@feddit.it
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          Here in Italy most houses used to have contacts allowing max 3kW, but nowadays it’s more common to have 4.5kW (with smart utility meters which allow 30% over current for 3 hours).
          Still have to be careful if you’re running a washing machine or something like that, but it’s doable.

          Of course old houses may have insufficiently-sized wires, and that’s another can of worms.

    • hit_the_rails@reddthat.com
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      a natural gas or LP stove will continue to function when the power is out

      LP camp stoves work without power and are a good backup for an electric stove

      • evasive_chimpanzee@lemmy.world
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        Yeah, a coleman (or equivalent) 2 burner camp stove combined with the adapter to use a full size propane tank is super handy. Combine it with a cast iron griddle, and you can functionally replicate a Blackstone for much much cheaper. It’s also way better for high heat cooking if you don’t have a good stove fan that actually vents outside.

        Also, sometimes when power goes out, gas does too (it’s still a grid that can fail).

        • HeyThisIsntTheYMCA@lemmy.world
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          we got a griddle attachment for my weber babyQ so we can take it camping and fry bacon on it. I’ll take that over a coleman any day.

    • Nomecks@lemmy.ca
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      I have a Viking with 15k burners. No shielding needed, but huge upgrades to air exchange and a really powerful hood fan were.

      • HelixDab2@lemm.ee
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        Because it’s a consumer (really a prosumer) stove, that shielding is already built in. You wouldn’t want to install a commercial range in right next to wooden cabinets; it’s assumed that surfaces in commercial kitchens are all going to be non-porous, hard surfaces, usually stainless steel or ceramic.

    • ShinkanTrain@lemmy.ml
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      Yeah, I don’t mind electric stoves but I gotta have one large high pressure burner for woks and griddles

      • HelixDab2@lemm.ee
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        My partner won’t let me have one. :( It’s too dangerous since our house is a cedar cabinet, and cedar burns VERY well.

    • Nollij@sopuli.xyz
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      Oh, and FWIW - if you live somewhere with an unstable power grid, a natural gas or LP stove will continue to function when the power is out, albeit you’ll need to light it manually.

      This is only true on the simplest (or older) gas stoves. Most models these days have all sorts of electronics, including features to prevent gas leaks.

      • Great Blue Heron@lemmy.ca
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        I also live in an area with frequent power disruption. We have a backup generator. It is more than enough to power the electronics in our propane gas range, but nowhere near enough to power an electric range.

      • Mine works when the power is out. The only electrical part is the starter.

        Also, I can heat my house (well, keep the temps above freezing) with my gas fireplace. I just have to manually click the pezioh electric starter.

        OTOH, when the power is out, I can’t run my stove vent hood, which vents outside and is why I don’t worry much about “particulate matter.” Never seen a non-externally-vented gas stove; I thought they were against code in the US, but whatever. The fireplace is entirely enclosed and sealed, and vented outside; heat circulation is via a fan that runs air around the heat box - which also doesn’t run with power out, making it less efficient. But it still beats having the pipes freeze.

          • Nope, not personally. I mean, I have had hoods that just vent into the kitchen, but never on a gas stove; only on cheap electric ones.

            I believe they exist, but IME gas stove installation code says it has to vent outside, because of the gas fumes. With electric stoves, installers can get away with just venting into the kitchen, so if something burns you get your smoke alarm.

            I roast coffee beans, and I do it by placing a cookie tray on my stove, and put the roaster on that. It is a major PITA, but if I do a dark roast it produces smoke - like real, dark, something’s-burning smoke - and if I don’t have it under the vent it sets the smoke detectors off every time. But under the vent, it just sucks it all out and jets it outside.

            This is the first house I’ve owned that has a gas stove, but my in-law’s place has a big Viking in it with, like, 10 burners; it’s a monster, and the hood on that looks like it came from a restaurant. Their’s vents outside, too.

            I have no doubt there are places in the US where gas is cheap and even trailer homes have gas stoves and no outside venting, and maybe older homes. I dunno. But every gas stove I’ve personally seen in the US in the past decade has vented outside.

          • HeyThisIsntTheYMCA@lemmy.world
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            i mean ours was built to look that way, but when you open those cabinets above the microwave there’s ducting in there for the vent to get to the roof.

        • Nollij@sopuli.xyz
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          Yes, they exist, as I acknowledged. How old is it? Is it representative of what you’d find at a standard big box retailer?

          For it to work, it means the controls must all be manual and mechanical. This is in contrast to the “smart” features that are very common.

          • Oh, 25 years old, or something? I’ve looked at replacing it with something newer and easier to clean, with electric controls instead of dials, but they’re enormously more expensive and the basic manual dial versions are still available, and cheaper.

            I mean, there’s not much to a gas stove. I’ve taken mine completely apart because the peizo starter fried itself. You don’t need more than physical dials to control gas flow, like a water faucet, and a peizo starter. Making them more complex is really silly. Even my in-laws stupid giant, expensive Viking has manual dials and peizo starters, although they only have to turn the dials on and the starters go automatically until they detect that the gas is burning. I have to press my dials to trigger the starter. Even in the Viking, the gas control is still just a valve; as long as there’s gas pressure in the lines, you can manually start it with a match with no electricity. Their’s is about 10 years old.

            Funny, though: our fireplaces are reversed. Our gas fireplace is peizo started; their’s you have to manually light with a lighter.

  • troed@fedia.io
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    idk - there should be some very clear cancer statistics to back up such a claim between countries like Sweden (<1% gas stoves, all are electric) vs other countries then.

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    It’s completely baffling that there are people unironically still defending gas stoves in 2025. There’s no discussion to be had on the subject any more, induction is superior and that’s final.

    • frank@sopuli.xyz
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      I would agree in places with good infrastructure. I lived somewhere with rampant power outages, sometimes for 5 days at a time.

      Gas was sure nice then.

    • evasive_chimpanzee@lemmy.world
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      I think the people who claim gas stoves are best likely grew up either not cooking much, or had a decent gas stove, so their first exposure to an electric stove was super cheap, crappy electric coil stoves in student housing, or wherever they first lived as a young adult. Then when they were able to afford better, they got a better gas stove.

      I have a really crappy gas stove, and it makes me yearn for the cheap electric coil stoves of my youth.

      People say that gas stoves are more powerful and responsive, when the truth is that more powerful stoves are more powerful, and “responsiveness” is a fake concern. My crappy gas stove takes forever to get a pot of water boiling, especially compared to coil stoves. Yeah, you can turn a gas stove to 100% quickly, but that’s only better if it can put out more power. It won’t heat up any faster than an electric stove if the electric stove takes double the time, but also has double the power. There’s also not many cases where “time to maximum heat” is what you care about, I can’t think of any.

      Responsiveness the other way (hot to cool) doesn’t matter when you have a high thermal mass in the pan (or the pan itself has high mass), it only matters when the pan and contents are light, in which case, you just take the pan off the heat.

      • drosophila@lemmy.blahaj.zone
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        23 hours ago

        The way coil stoves cycle their power on and off is incredibly dumb IMO.

        Induction cooktops don’t do that, but it blows my mind that it took as long as it did to get a duty cycle frequency somewhere above ‘once every 30 seconds’.

    • Coolcoder360@lemmy.world
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      When the power goes out in sub zero temperatures, and your heating does too, it helps to be able to make hot water on the stove to warm up.

      Otherwise, yeah induction is better.

        • Coolcoder360@lemmy.world
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          Typically those shouldn’t be used indoors though, right? Usually a gas stove will have ventilation, but no gas stove, then likely not enough ventilation and you’ll need to step outside or crack a window to cook with gas.

        • gonzo-rand19@moist.catsweat.com
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          While you’re correct in general, in places where the power is out for a week, a camping/backpacking stove would be ill-suited to the task of keeping multiple people warm and fed. Especially in a house and not an apartment.

          • evasive_chimpanzee@lemmy.world
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            23 hours ago

            A gas furnace won’t keep you warm when the power is out, either. I will say a camp stove feeds just as well as a regular stove, after all, how often are you using more than 2 burners simultaneously?

            • gonzo-rand19@moist.catsweat.com
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              A gas (or wood) stove will, which is why they’re still common in rural areas that face power outages more frequently. Your comment is the first mention of furnaces.

              Personally, I use more than 2 burners pretty often. Honestly, it’s a bit of a waste of everyone’s time to debate whether or not a camping stove is a universal replacement for a gas stove since everyone has different needs. For the scenario I described, a gas stove is the better option.

              I would be pretty pissed if I had to use a camping stove instead of a gas stove during an outage just because. They’re totally different tools suited for different use cases and environments.

              • deltamental@lemmy.world
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                20 hours ago

                Yes, look at what happened in New Hampshire last winter with an historically extreme cold snap that caused power outages. It was so cold that many cars refused to start. If you were depending on electric heat only, you may very well die, not even able to make it to a neighbors house before dying.

  • edric@lemm.ee
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    Our new-build house came with a gas stove+oven. Our overhead microwave does vent to the outside of the house so hopefully it helps a bit. The worst part is the oven’s vents face the front, so the fumes literally go up to your face if you’re standing in front of it. So when we use the oven, we try to keep distance and hope the the microwave vent sucks up as much fumes as possible.

    • plaguesandbacon@lemmy.ca
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      Overhead microwaves are terrible at venting. Lots of places don’t allow over the range microwaves over gas stoves in their building code. If you can afford to do so, consider getting a proper hood fan installed

      • edric@lemm.ee
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        Yup, I’m definitely looking into upgrading to a proper hood fan in the near future.

  • PennyRoyal@sh.itjust.works
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    I read that running an extractor hood mitigates the risk a fair amount. Not completely, but enough that you shouldn’t worry if gas is your only option

    • tburkhol@lemmy.world
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      Since this article is specifically about pm 2.5, I’m going to chime in and say I have a gas range with no extractor, and the only time my pm2.5 sensor picks anything up is when frying generates smoke and oil aerosols. That’s more a function of cooking temperature than fuel, and my induction hotplate will generate just as much.

      CO2? Definitely more with gas. Trace chemicals? Probably more with gas, but all the studies I’ve seen are just about running the cooktop, with no food, in a sealed room. Run the extraction hood or open a window when you cook - it’s not just heat source.

    • freebee@sh.itjust.works
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      Many people don’t turn the hood on until food itself is creating a lot of vapor because they are usually so noisy. Meaning the hood often helps very little in practice, although in theory you are right.

      • PennyRoyal@sh.itjust.works
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        10 hours ago

        I’ve turned mine on, even if only on low, as I light the stove since first reading about this, but I think I’m a little more fact-absorbent than most people

        • YarHarSuperstar@lemmy.world
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          My stove has a “hood”/fan that runs through the microwave and into a cabinet and that’s it. What can I do? After reading all this I intend to keep the window open nearby when cooking, and I always have two large air purifiers running in the living room attached to the kitchen.

          • evasive_chimpanzee@lemmy.world
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            For a lot of these large scale, epidemiological findings, it’s important to remember that the effects are small enough that you pick them up on a population level over a lifetime. I’d say that if you can, find a way to properly vent your stove outside if you are doing some home improvement. If you are replacing your stove, consider induction instead, and in the meantime, having an air purifier is good. Opening a window is probably also good. Other than that, I wouldn’t be super alarmed. Obviously, if you have little kids or something, you might have a lower tolerance for potential pollution, but it’s good to think about these things in context. Alcohol causes cancer, but everyone still drinks.

            • YarHarSuperstar@lemmy.world
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              Thank you, that is a great answer that helps me both feel better and take steps if necessary. 10/10 would ask again.

              Edit: sorry I know this sounds sarcastic but I really am grateful.

  • RBWells@lemmy.world
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    I’ve always cooked on radiant electric (not induction) stoves, but gas stoves are amazing. Literal fire just works like nothing else. Faster cooking != Better cooking, why are you conflating them?

    I’ve never lived in a closed up efficient new house either, those seem like anything you cook would be problematic. All cooking releases something.

    Will almost certainly stick with electric personally (whole house is electric only) but if I had an unlimited budget it would be gas stove, big whomping vent fan, and ovens with both steam and fan.

    Induction worries me because we had an induction plate and it made a terrifying shrill noise, I worry that the high end ones do the same but we can’t hear it. Which seems awful for the dogs and cats.

    • Drusas@fedia.io
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      Most induction burners are silent. I was an adamant supporter of gas over electric, but induction is just superior.

    • LordGimp@lemm.ee
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      18 hours ago

      Why bother with gas if resources aren’t an issue? Something savagely luxurious about cooking over wood. Primal but decadent.

      • RBWells@lemmy.world
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        A wood stove would be incredible if I lived in a colder climate. Here it would just be too much heat, they are used to both cook and warm the house, right?

        But yeah. Throw another log on the fire. A couple of my friends moved to the countryside in Belize, and they built a big clay oven outside, but said because of the way it heated (so hot, close it up, let it slowly cool) they could only cook certain things in it.

    • CodeHead@lemmy.world
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      I’ve got a gas stove and a highly inefficient house. I recently got an air quality detector and yeah, it goes off every time I cook anything on the stove. Not so much if I use the oven.

      I’m pretty sure the premise is correct… though unsure as to the degree. I would get an induction stove in a heart beat. Just… you know… cost and all. (Buy the stove, update my wiring to not suck where the stove would go, things like that)

      • ShepherdPie@midwest.social
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        Your data is only half the story though. What would your air quality meter be reading if you were cooking with an electric stove?