The HA Ecobee integration requires a developer API key which ecobee no longer distributes, if you already have a key it still works, but they stopped giving out new keys a few years ago.

On the other hand, the HomeKit integration allows new users to control most of the thermostat’s features locally over WiFi. I got my thermostat after the Developer program ended, and this is how I control it today. Once you install the HomeKit integration, it will discover the thermostat if its on the same LAN, and then prompt you to add it.

I have an ecobee I mainly control locally through the HomeKit integration on HA. Just about all of the basic features are covered: setpoints, heat/cool/auto/off and fan on/off/auto. Some of the more advanced features like Home/Away/Sleep profiles are not available through the integration, but they tend to be set & forget.

It doesn’t need Internet access or the companion app to operate your system, though it will use external access to track local weather and energy rates. (And probably collect usage data.) The companion app gives access to a few more features remotely, but the unit is completely programmable from its front panel.

It’s worked out fine for me so far. My local power utility sells them at a steep discount through their online storefront. Check around for rebates.

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Can this be done with foil or metal?

Based on a layman’s knowledge of these things, I’d guess that’s probably a bad idea there since the microwave reflectance off the metal could saturate the receiver on the sensor. Best case, the hot signal confuses the sensor making it unreliable for tracking objects at a distance. Worst case, it could shorten the device lifetime if not outright burn out the receiver.

Rather, you’d want something to absorb the microwave energy like, say, paint with carbon black in it. It’ll still covert the absorbed energy to heat (like your microwave oven), but at the power levels we’re discussing you could at least dissipate it somehow.

Edit: just realized I didn’t address shaping. What I mentioned above, I was thinking of sticking a strip of foil across a portion of the plastic lens. You could probably form a sort foil visor for the sensor, like a ball cap, but you may still run into issue with false positives and ghosting of objects as signals would now be bouncing around in ways the sensor wasn’t designed to account for, if they even get picked up.

Federal police are still investigating whether the aircraft was involved in drug trafficking

Um…

And I genuinely hope it stays that way for years more to come. Cheers.

Oracle Cloud will also delete your shit for the price of admission.

Caveat emptor, hey?

So, uh…

Digital Ocean Is pretty inexpensive at US$7 monthly for 1 vCPU/1GB RAM with 1TB transfer. Decent platform. US-based, alas.

(2025 September, for the archives)

The FAA/ICAO use a similar system to name aerial navigation and fixed GPS waypoints. It addresses the challenge of communicating identifiers of unique nodes in a vast network using VHF communications.

Have you heard of Proquints?

https://www.ietf.org/archive/id/draft-rayner-proquint-03.html

I have some logic around notifications and a few actions. My spouse and I both grew up in houses with heat, but no AC, so I’ve programmed HA to send notifications to our phones if the setpoint on our Ecobee thermostat is warmer than the outside temperature in Cooling mode, and cooler than the outside temp in Heating mode. Outdoor temps are a blend of three weather service feed “feels like” observations and two outdoor temperate/humidity sensors.

The outdoor sensors are a ZigBee sensor, and some area sensors I snoop a few times an hour with an RTL-SDR radio single via MQTT bus. I have a helper that blends the weather service and local obs to compare with the thermostat. It bothers us every 2 hours to open some windows.

We both also have a bad habit of not closing the back door all the way, so the Assistant bugs us if a door or window is open for more than 10 minutes and the outdoor temperature is below the heating setpoint, or above the cooling setpoint. It turns off the HVAC a few minutes later if the condition persists and sends a snarky notification about not being made of enough money to fix climate change. However, it will turn the heat back on to 60F if the house falls below 58F and send notifications every hour til the condition is addressed.

Otherwise the ecobee does a fair job adjusting itself to maintain a desired inside temp on its own.

You’ve solved it by now but this Jellyfin doc article was helpful for me, beginning with the section Naming.

https://jellyfin.org/docs/general/server/media/movies/

There at similar guides for TV Shows, Music, Books and other mixed media.

There are also guides for “stacking” multi-segment media titles, for example Lord of the Rings movies which come on several discs.

Jellyfin can be a bit opinionated about detecting bad metadata. The override tags in the media data filename or folder name can help clean that up. In fact, I’ve started hard-coding those [tmdbid=…] tags in my encoding workflow because I’m just so damned tired of fighting with the metadata feature.

Hope it works form you,.too.

Good move. I’ve driven my Sengled E11-N1EA bulbs for years now over ZigBee with an old HubZ HUSBZB-1. Works fine, no regrets. Didn’t even know those bulbs were cloud attached.

This is so meta it hurts.

Yeah, I know.

Aurora is immutable, I fucked up. Oops.

Edit: unsubscribed. My life will be better.

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Grok’s got some jokes.

Look into the GE Enbrigjten series of Z-wave dimmer switches & 3-poles. They’re about half the price as what you linked, and use a more modern protocol stack. You’ll need a Z-wave hub, but you can get a USB dongle for about the cost of one of the switches, and it will probably Al’s include ZigBee on board as well.

GE makes dimmable 2-pole and 3-pole switches. The good thing about their 3-pole switches is you only need one smart switch for the branch, and can use companion switches to control the main smart switch over the traveler wire.

As always, pay attention to ALL smart switch literature and make sire you have a compatible load. Many switches require a neutral wire, and/or aren’t compatible with halogen fixtures. The product literature should make it pretty clear.

I also use Minoston switches, which I believe are another brand of the GE switches.

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