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Cake day: August 14th, 2024

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  • I’d prefer GNU’s ddrescue just because I find it more robust and has better progress output. It’s functionally the same interface but lets you use a mapfile to resume sessions should anything happen to interrupt the copy.

    Arguably I’m against this because you never know what’s going to happen and the conventional wisdom for appliances like this is to just backup any important configs, backup your containers and vms, then do a fresh install from the latest install media on the new disk followed by a restore of the backups. It might take a little more time but it’s negligible and allows you an opportunity to review your current configs, make necessary changes, and ensure your backups are working as intended.





  • I have the same model, powering 3 machines with an average load of ~125w when it switches to battery power. I have a NUT host on one of the servers which will broadcast the outage for the other machines and the whole stack shuts down after 30 seconds and switches off the UPS at the very end. Gone through about 4 or 5 true power events now and double that in testing (overzealous I know) but the UPS is 2.5 years old now and is doing just fine. I have a spare battery because I heard ~3 years is normal but so far no indication it’s reaching replacement yet.

    I think the important thing for these is to not run them down to 0. They’re only good for one event at a time and shouldn’t constantly be switching over without basically a full day of recharging again (more like 16h to recharge).

    I can see consistent brownouts and events being a problem for these little machines. I’m planning on upgrading to a rack solution soon and relegating this one to my desktop in the other room (with a fresh battery of course).




  • The thing to keep in mind if you go the peroxide/retrobrite route is that it makes the plastic physically more brittle and weaker in order to obtain the original coloring and the shell will yellow again at an accelerated rate unless you also coat it in something UV protective which will likely end up looking shiny or slightly off. I say just keep it as is and enjoy playing it while it still works.








  • For steam, it’s identical to windows. Literally do nothing other than install steam, install game, and hit run. The only time it’s a problem is if a game offers a native Linux version but the native version has been hamstrung by the publisher (see: rocket league). In which case all you do is go to the properties of the game, force a proton version, and it will redownload the windows version and work just fine. The only other exception would be for multiplayer games that have not upgraded their anticheat version to one compatible with proton. That’s starting to be more rare thanks to steamdeck.

    As for wine, Lutris is a great example of an application with community maintained/driven configurations for popular games and applications to be installed in a couple simple clicks and works the majority of the time.

    For other applications, it really depends. My general rule is— if it’s not on steam and nobody has made a script for Lutris, I’ll look for native and open source alternatives. If I can’t find one, then look for instructions on setting it up with wine by hand as a last resort. Finally, can I just live without the app instead?