I have Zigbee stuff. Here’s what I like about that: they bridge between each other (if they’re powered rather than battery operated) and that extends the range. The range can be great to begin with! They’re not on my network, adding confusion or load on the access points, plus they can’t phone home… all local. Then there’s smart switches, and I’m going to point out that without WiFi they can’t be controlled, but Zigbee? Sure, I can easily power cycle my router and access points with Zigbee smart plugs! In fact I have an automation to do that daily. Finally, if something is WiFi you can’t know in advance if it’s cloud based or not, and regardless of that it’s a potentially unsafe device that is connected to the internet. Low power, but botnets work with numbers rather than power.

I don’t know how the various options here work, BUT you might also appreciate them too https://libredirect.github.io/index.html (this is where I found the other link)

Seems a good time to drop this here https://breezewiki.com/

This reminds me that it’s a new month, and time for a backup. Thanks!

Had access to cli, restarted HA and quickly disabled the Alexa integration: so far everything is working as intended :)

Similarly unfortunate situation for me, using the backup didn’t really help. But I DO have the Alexa integration, I guess next time I get HA between reboots I’ll disable that.

I think on my system it’s causing reboots. Not fun.

Fortunately my thermometers don’t do that, because they are a good choice, Zigbee wise. Always on the lookout for replacements, if the need arises…

The bloody morons… why they say 16 tops if it can do better? It’s not like they don’t have access to 16gb sticks to test 2 of them! Like, I get when it’s “this supports up to” and that’s the largest available at launch, but this is just stupid. Thanks for correcting me!

super easy to upgrade to 32/48gb

Not on an N95/97/100 as they support max 16… https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/231803/intel-processor-n100-6m-cache-up-to-3-40-ghz.html so they can be repaired, but not upgraded.

The wireless Reolinks are not great. Like, nothing against the camera itself, however, the WiFi antenna must be smaller than the one in my watch. The range is truly abysmal.

Tapo ones are perfectly fine, good quality all around, but it’s important to specify that I have experience with external, solar powered Reolinks and indoor Tapo, so it’s a bit of a different category.

I’m going to top that… I thank whatever assistant I’m talking to. After I get the answer. And they’re not listening anymore.

Real or not, it just feels wrong not to thank after I asked for something and received it.

In iOS there’s an option in the app to select a different icon, including the old design. Now, they’ve updated all the others so if you want the old design and for example the purple icon that’s a no go, but…

I like your solution, quite clever! But in my instance I actually want it to turn off once the print is over. I don’t remember the details but I think it’s set up so it will turn off after the hot end has cooled down for a few minutes, it’s controlled by a plug-in for Octoprint.

You do need to know the number, IF you want to maximize the amount of cooling via open window vs AC.

That aside I’m pretty sure this is an “agree to disagree” situation, mostly because it’s clear we have different tastes. A smart home for me has the value of letting me control everything in a single place (always on me), without going around looking for remotes that might need a new battery. Automations are good, but I want to keep control over every little detail.

So you would be fine being a guest in someone’s else house, no control over anything and just let whatever automations are in place do their thing? But all of this in your own home? Temperature is an important value to know, tells if it’s better to turn off the AC/heat and just open the windows at that time, or when it’s the better moment to open them and air the place. Same with air quality, if it gets worse with the windows open it’s better to close them, or if it’s not great inside it might be a good idea to open.

My fan has an app or a pair of buttons on top, no remote.

Right, I see your point and it makes sense. But at the same time consider this: would you still like all the smart stuff if it was completely automated and you had no access to it? It just works, and you can’t make it work a little differently if needed? And I offer an example of something that I can’t imagine how it could be automated… I have a smart fan, power and orientation is dependent on where I am and how hot I feel. Easy enough to change that with the app as needed. Remember this is something I can control but would not want to give control to other people in the house.

On top of that what about sensors? Without the app you can’t see them so for example no quick glance to check the temperature in multiple rooms and outside.

Also while the app is a bit clunky, it sure beats using that one rather than all of the Philips Hue, LIFX, Yeelight, Xiaomi, Tapo, Kasa, Daikin…

The problem with buttons is that they’re expensive (relatively speaking) and ruin the advantages of having everything in a single place like the HA app.

I am not giving access to “everything” to everyone in the house: I already managed to accidentally turn off the 3D printer mid print instead of a light, shouldn’t expect others to be better than me.

Hard to imagine TP-Link not making their products in China, it is a Chinese company XD

But I do agree: usually they make top quality hardware, been my favorite for… a decade at least? I like their Tapo smart plugs and cameras, my router is TP-Link, I have a second router with a mobile connection and that’s Mercusys (another sub brand) and so on.

I’m sticking with Ubiquiti for wireless networking however.

I love Home assistant, but there’s one major thing IMO that’s missing and prevents me from really using it: user accounts. You can make accounts but they’re mostly pointless as they all have access to everything and you can’t restrict things.